For Suzuki GS500 89-00 GSX400 GK79A 94-99 Ignition Switch Gas Cap Seat Lock Key (Fits: Suzuki GS500E) 3 out of 5 stars (5) 5 product ratings - For Suzuki GS500 89-00 GSX400 GK79A 94-99 Ignition Switch Gas Cap Seat Lock Key.
Do It Yourself TimingAdvance
Dec 13, 2011 - This Pin was discovered by Christopher Kleinman. Discover (and save!) your own Pins on Pinterest. The ignition was also re-drilled with a five degree timing advance, and we installed a full Vance & Hines Supersport exhaust system. With the bike warmed up to operating temperature and strapped down on the Dynojet 200, dyno operator Jerry Peak shifted the GS500 up through the gears to an aggressive fourth gear roll on the throttle. If your project is incomplete without Motorcycle Ignition Coils, look no further. We have quality products for your Suzuki GS500 from brands you trust at prices that will fit your budget.
| By Mike Trovero |
If you can't find a Vance & Hines ignitionadvancer (because availability is very spotty ) there is another option-doing it yourself.. This is not a hard project to undertake and therewards will be the same bit of low end power as found with the Vance &Hines advancer. Many people have done this modification without incident.
A hot and rainy summer day project
You will need:- Your favorite GS500e.
- Phillips screw driver.
- Racket wrench or equivalent + 10 mm and 7 mm sockets.
- 19 mm box wrench.
- Vernier caliper or equivalent measuring device.
- Dremel tool or small round file.
- Pliers.
- Wite-out pen or indelible marker.
- Pen and paper.
- Hammer (optional.)
- Mosquito repellent and mosquito plant (optional.)
| You will work on the right side of the bike, facing the brake pedal. I swear it wasn't me who did those scratches on the cover. | |
| Remove the seat and disconnect the negative pole of the battery | |
| Remove the three bolts of the rotor cover with the 7 mm socket | |
| Remove the two screws that hold the rotor plate in place. | |
| While holding the rotor with the 19 mm wrench, remove with the 10 mm socket the bolt that holds it. | |
| This is a view of the other side of the rotor. Mine had a little notch in the keyway, although it cannot be seen in this picture. I wonder how that happened | |
| Unscrew the electrical contacts, remove them, including the magnets, and open the clip that holds the wires. | |
| You want to rotate the place counter-clockwise by 5º. With an indelible marker, draw an arrow in the direction that you want to turn it so that you don't get confused later. I found that my marker was not as indelible as it claimed to be, so later I used Wite-Out. | |
| The distance between the center of the two holes is 7 cm. That means that 5º is equivalent, at the level of the screw holes, to (5*70mm*pi)/360 = 3.05 mm. Measure with the vernier caliper a distance of 3 mm from the screw holes in the direction opposite to which you want to turn the ignition plate, and mark it with the marker. See the two little black marks near the holes? Note that this picture shows the back of the plate, so that the arrow is pointing clock-wise. | |
| Remove the clip on the front of the plate. On a sheet of paper, take a blue-print of the plate, and mark the point that you want to file up to on the blue print too, so that you can compare it later in case the marks you made on the plate get deleted. Don't ask how I figured this out. Now, using a your favorite grinding tool, start filing the slots. A dremel tool would be very helpful since the metal is thick and hard. I don't have one (it's on the Christmas list though,) so I used a small file. It took me about 1 hr. Remember to measure often and compare to your blue-print. | |
| In the picture on the left you see the plate once finished. Notice how the holes are slotted now, and compare it to the blueprint on the paper sheet. The last thing to do is to bend the clip for the wires. This is actually what took me the longest time. Filing it is not an option because the side is too thin. I used the hammer at first and then bent the two little feet with pliers. Now put everything back together. Before installing the cover, start the bike and make sure that the rotor is turning freely and does not hit anything. While you're on that side of the bike, check the level of your oil also. Don't forget that the bike must be on the centerstand, or else you may overfill it. Not that I have ever done that... | |
Photo and supplemental info submitted by Emmett Lyman Mark the plate and the metal it screws to for orientation purposes. I held a screwdriver overlapping both pieces and gave it a whack. It shows you how the plate originally lined up. If you measure 5 degrees and put another mark on the plate, you can line it up with the other mark to ensure that you don't accidentally overshoot 5 degrees. | |
Q. 'Does it work?' Q. 'I see, but in terms of horsepower?' Q. 'Ok, but in terms of seat-of-the-pants-type horsepowers?' Thanks to Martin, Srinath and the other folks on the board at www.gstwin.com for helping out with directions. | |
Gs500 Ignition Timing
As the saying goes, there’s no replacement for displacement. There’s truth in that statement, which is unfortunate when you’re working with 487 air cooled cubic centimeters.
We didn’t have pre-modification baseline numbers for our 1993 Suzuki GS500, but a little research revealed the average stock GS500 puts down about 39 wheel horsepower. That’s not a lot in comparison to the average modern sportbike, but it is enough to have some fun without getting yourself into a whole lot of trouble. That said, after completing a bunch of work on the bike we were hoping to put down a few extra ponies and fine tune our Suzuki GS500 on the dyno at D&D Import Cycles.
Prior to visiting the dyno we had opened up our Suzuki’s factory Mikuni carbs and re-jetted them with a stage III jet kit and pod filters. The ignition was also re-drilled with a five degree timing advance, and we installed a full Vance & Hines Supersport exhaust system.
Suzuki Gs500 Ignition Advancer
With the bike warmed up to operating temperature and strapped down on the Dynojet 200, dyno operator Jerry Peak shifted the GS500 up through the gears to an aggressive fourth gear roll on the throttle. Fourth gear was used for the power pulls because it’s the point at which the ratio between the rotating dyno drum and the Suzuki’s rear tire is closest to 1:1. The base pull calculated 44 horsepower at the wheel – already a very good improvement from the stock estimate. The graph also showed the Suzuki twin to be running rich.
Peak suggested replacing the 134 main jet that was installed as part of our jet kit with a smaller 124 main. The smaller jet leaned out the Suzuki’s mixture a bit more than we’d like at low rpm, but kept the twin burning at an ideal air/fuel ratio of about 13ppm in the operating range of the power band. On a carbureted engine compromises like this are often an unfortunate necessity and a lean condition is far less dangerous at idle than it is at WOT. The smaller jet also provided a 1.1 horsepower gain for a peak 45.1 horsepower at 9,200 rpm, and cured an off-idle stumble. The power curve recorded by our GS500 is pretty smooth, but had there been any sharp peaks or valleys the dyno would show us where they were so we could attempt to tune them out.
With 45.1 horsepower at the wheel I’m not likely going to run down a Ducati at the race track, but the extra power combined with an improved throttle response, better breathing, and linear power delivery sure makes it fun to try.
D&D Import Cycles is located at 1038 W. Little Creek Road in Norfolk, VA. They specialize in sales, service, and performance tuning of import motorcycles.
Gs500 Ignition Advance Battery
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